What is flamenco? Often misunderstood, it is a seductive art form that has been cultivated in Andalucia for nearly five hundred years and thought to have its roots in Jewish, Arabic, Greek and Castillian cultures. Indeed one can hear echoes of the music of these cultures in this passionate and soulful music. It inspired Spain's great poet and playwright, Federico Garcia Lorca, to pen some of his most memorable plays and poems, and it is intimately linked with the colour and passion of the bullring.
In Seville, fiestas and celebrations be they religious or secular, will have flamenco music and dance. The women will dress in colourful polka-dot dresses and silk shawls, the men in tight trousers and black hats, just like the flamenco dancers on stage.
Flamenco's Earliest Form
In the earliest form of flamenco the only instruments to provide rhythm were the voice, the feet and the hands. Later a guitar was added but purists insist that this is not authentic nor is it necessary. It is believed that the tapping of the feet was only introduced during the last century and the castanets were added later to enhance the finger snapping.
In Seville, music and dance are part of everyday life and in small cafés and taverns sometimes a flamenco singer and dancer will spontaneously take to the floor. The city burns with life, colour and romance, guitar music seeps out of inky bars, stamping feet and the click of castanets lead one down alleys shaded by the walls of the Alcazar, and when you trace the sound it to its origin, you will seldom be disappointed.
The Flamenco Museum in Seville
A visit to the first flamenco museum in the world, tucked away in a beautiful 18th century Palace in Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, 41-004, should be high on anyone's list. Here you can find out all you want to know about flamenco dancing, take lessons in the dance, learn to play flamenco guitar, and then see a performance. Its originator was one of Seville's most respected dancers, Christina Hoyos, who also directs the Andalucian Flamenco Ballet.
There are various rooms in the museum but the first floor houses costumes and memorabilia from the classic era of flamenco. Those who have already seen the brilliant Carlos Saura film Bodas de Sangre (Blood Wedding) starring Cristina with Antonio Gades (another famous flamenco dancer) will have the rare experience of seeing costumes and props from the film.
In the screening room, visitors are shown the evolution of the art from its earliest days to the present time and after this there will be a performance in the club like atmosphere of the tablao room. If you want to buy some flamenco shoes, dresses, hats, castanets, CD's or DVD's, then make sure to visit the shop on the way out. It carries the best selection in Seville or all things Flamenco.
Where to Experience Flamenco in Seville
Below are listed some of the flamenco venues in Seville. It is advisable to make a reservation. especially during high season. if you want to avoid disappointment.
Tablaos are quite good but for the purist, they are not the real flamenco. It must be stressed though, that they offer a very good night out and for the newcomer to flamenco can be an excellent introduction to the music and dancing The Peñas give a more traditional insight into the art and are normally run by lovers of the flamenco who are more interested in encouraging the art than in making money.
So, Peñas first:
As there are more than 50 of these in Seville alone, the best thing is to enquire of the Federation Provincial de Sevilla D Entidades Flamencas at Dante 1 Aula 26 CP41006. TEL: 954 64 19 76 and they will give you details of the current penas in the area.
Tablaos: Your hotel reception will be happy to make a reservation for any of these.
Tablao el Arenal, Rodo 7 (Barrio el Arenal).
Flamenco Puro, el Palacio Andaluz, Avenida Maria Auxiliadora, 18.
Casa de la Memoria, Calle Zimenez de Enciso, 28 (Santa Cruz),
El Patio Sevillano, Paseo Colon, 11 -A CP 41001
Those interested in that other musical offering of Seville, the Opera, can take a self-guided walk that includes scenes from the many operas set in Seville.
Mari Nicholson - Award Winning travel writer and historian, member of British Guild of Travel Writers.Travelwriters.co.uk, and Society of Women Writers and ...
