Few cities can have a river that adds so much to the pleasure of its citizens and to the thousands of tourists who visit. Seville was once one of the greatest ports in Europe, the point of entry for the riches from the New World that were sent to Spain. Now the famous river that carried the gold and silver to the city is home to a host of sporting clubs and to a number of Olympic canoeists that come to Seville to practice on the Guadalquivir – at the last count, I was told, sixteen countries were represented.
How Best to Enjoy the River
The best way to experience the river is to take a trip one one of the well equipped boats that cruise the waters, offering glimpses of well known landmarks. The pace is leisurely and there is plenty of time to get a perspective of both sides of the river, one side of which is thickly cloaked in lush greenery, oleander, bougainvillea and jasmine, the other side dotted with pavement cafés and fishermen.
You will see many of Seville's major landmarks starting with the Torre del Oro (the Tower of Gold), so called because it used to be covered in golden tiles and was the place where the gold that came from the New World was kept on arrival. You will see the Maestranza Bullring, the second largest in Spain and one of great importance in the history of taurino, a blindingly white building with red and gold paint highlighting exterior features, and you will see some of the Pavilions of the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition and some of the 1992 Exhibition. You will catch glimpses of the famous Giralda Tower the symbol of Seville, St. Telmo Palace, and the Triana area and you will probably return another day to take another boat trip before you leave Seville.
The Bridges that Span the Guadalquivir
The boat goes under nine bridges, some of them of architectural interest and some historical interest. Barqueta Bridge is one of two built for the 1992 Exposition (Expo '92), held to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the discovery of American by Christopher Columbus. This bridge, a gleaming white structure that spans the Guadalquivir with elegance, is the main entrance to Cartuja island where the Expo was located. Most of the island is now covered with offices but the Cartuja Monastery still stands and there is now the Isla Magica, an amusement park in the heart of the city. Christopher Columbus is said to have spent his last few nights in the Cartuja Monastery prior to the voyage that led to the discovery of America.
The other bridge built for the Expo is the Alamillo Bridge designed by famous Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. It's ultra-modern design is in stark contrast to the architecture of the rest of the city and its appearance adds a touch of sophistication to the ancient river. For me though, the loveliest bridge is The Triana, older, less flamboyant maybe, but having its own quiet charm. Illuminated on a sultry Seville evening it can be magical.
If your time on the boat has left you with an urge to explore the riverbanks, then when you disembark you can walk along the tow-path, or hire a cycle, to see the river from another angle.
Stop for a fino and tapas at one of the many cafés on the pavement, maybe have some seafood at one of the al fresco restaurants, or cross the Triana Bridge into Calle Betis and enjoy the street life.
Recommended:
The Seville Pass allows entrance to most museums and places of interest plus the above boat trip and the hop on hop off buses that depart from the same area (near the Torre del Oro).
Prices:
24 hours - 29 Euros: 72 hours - 60 Euros; 120 hours - 80 Euros.
Further information from Seville Tourism
Mari Nicholson - Award Winning travel writer and historian, member of British Guild of Travel Writers.Travelwriters.co.uk, and Society of Women Writers and ...
