The Great Mosque/Cathedral of Cordoba is one of Spain's most famous monuments. In fact, it is one of the world's most remarkable buildings, containing within the stupendous mosque, a cathedral.
The art and culture of the Moorish kingdom of Al-Andalus made Cordoba one of the most famous cities in Europe and a centre for learning from the 10th century until the 15th. There was a deep sense of tolerance and respect among the three strong cultures that shared the life of the city, the Moslems, the Jews and the Christians: music, mathematics, literature and philosophy flourished in the University (one of the earliest) and in the forums where men of letters met to debate.
This all changed with the reconquest of Cordoba by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1236 and the arrival of the Catholic Kings in 1478 (linked to the reconquest of Granada and the discovery of America) and gradually, over about three centuries, the tolerance and intellectual life of the city faded away.
Fortunately, the reconquistadores kept the beautiful mosque building and others were built in the city in the same style during the 17th and 18th centuries. By the 19th century and the arrival of the railway, Cordoba was ripe for a new urban plan, one which is apparent today.
The Great Mosque of Cordoba
The mosque is the biggest in the world and considered the most important Muslim monument in the Western hemisphere. The building of the mosque began in 785 on a small hill near the Quadalquivir, on top of a Visigoth church which recent evidence seems to suggest was in its turn build on the site of a Roman Temple: others claim it was a Jewish temple built on a Celtic temple.
Inside one is met with a display of close packed, red and gold, arched pillars that seem to float into the distance, for all the world like a forest of palm trees leading one to an oasis. There are eleven aisles and these contain 152 columns standing on a floor of stucco and ochre mortar which would normally be covered with carpets. On the walls, and in the various annexes and rooms off the mosque are some exquisite Arabic designs, notably in the Praise Room and in the Mihrab, a sacred niche in the Mosque. Here and there one can see mosaics of purple, yellow, green and blue glass.
The Tower
Visible all around, the tower from which the muezzin used to call the faithful to prayer, is the second one to be erected. It also had a new façade erected the 17th century. In structure it is Renaissance style and it is a very beautiful addition to the mosque/cathedral.
The Cathedral inside the Mosque
The Cathedral is lavish and impressive as befits a conquering monarch, but it is said that when the king visited Cordoba after his wedding in Seville to Isabel of Portugal, and saw what had been done he said “I did not know that is was like that. If I had known, I would not have allowed you to destroy it, because what you have done could be done in other parts. You have destroyed what was unique in the world.”
He may or may not have uttered these words, but certainly, what was built was a Cathedral fit to honour their majesties, and fortunately for us, what they left, can still be admired as one of the great buildings of the world.
The Alcazar of the Christian Kings
This reminds one very much of the Alhambra Palace gardens in Granada, hardly surprising as it has to be accepted that the influence in design, use of water and fountains, and the species of vegetation grown, stems from the Arabic. It is but a short walk from the Mosque and a perfect place in which to rest and contemplate the flowers.
For more information: Cordoba: The Mosque Cultural Guide – Diputatión of Cordoba
Mari Nicholson - Award Winning travel writer and historian, member of British Guild of Travel Writers.Travelwriters.co.uk, and Society of Women Writers and ...
